Using and Assembling Floating Frames for Your Artwork

Floater frames are almost like setting your artwork inside a halo, and the effect it has on your artwork is just as magical. The work seems to advance toward the viewer while the frame recedes, which is what a good frame should do. They give the work space to breathe. Floater frames are one of the best and most professional ways you can display your artwork on panels or canvas. As the name implies, the art appears to float inside the frame without touching the edges. This allows the entire artwork to show from edge to edge instead of having to sacrifice 1/4 inch of the image all the way around as most standard canvas frames require. On small works especially, that's enough missing image to impact your composition.

Anything you can do or mount onto on a wood panel or canvas can fit into this frame. Oil , acrylic, pastel, watercolor, encaustic, photography, ink, drawing media, printmaking… If you work on paper, you can mount the paper to a canvas or panel before framing. You can even allow a deckled edge to show since it won’t be crushed against the frame. Artists who work on paper are taking advantage of these float frames to avoid the high cost of framing with mat and glass. One thing to note, however, is that float frames do not contain glass, so you might want to protect your art with a coating of some kind, such as varnish, cold wax, or fixative.

I wanted to test Ampersand FloaterFrames on my own artwork and give you a review of both the product and the process. In the past, I've made my own floater frames from scratch and I've hired a framer to float frame for me. These readymade frame kits are the perfect in-between option so I wanted to try them out and see if they're a good fit for future exhibitions. When Ampersand developed these frames, they had in mind their wide range of wood panels, but these work equally well with stretched canvas, except for one caveat I've explained below. So I tried one 3/4 inch profile stretched canvas and one 1/8 inch profile Gessbord panel.

Floaterframe Style Options

Floater frames come in white, black, maple, and walnut, so you should be able to choose from these neutral tones to enhance any art. I chose the maple finish because it was the best complement to my oil sketches, which feature primarily light values. In my opinion, it's hard to beat a timeless and beautiful clear-varnished hardwood. And these are made from premium hardwood. Ampersand uses FSC-certified forest products that promote sustainable forests, and they’re free from formaldehyde or harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds).

The style of these frames is clean and simple with a square-edged deep profile. The elegant and modern look compliments a wide range of artwork styles. There are 2 depths available: 7/8 inch deep and 1-1/2 inch deep. The 7/8 inch size refers to the rabbet depth, or how far into the frame the back of your artwork will sit. Select the 7/8 inch profile for flat panels and cradled depths up to 7/8 inch. I chose the 7/8 inch depth because my canvas was 3/4 inch deep and I wanted the surface of the painting to be about the same height as the frame profile. Choose the 1-1/2 inch option for thicker 1-1/2 inch cradled panels or canvases.

There are 2 face profiles available: thin or bold. The face is the part of the frame that shows on either side of the art. Consider the thin face a light outline around your work and the bold face a thick outline. For my 5 inch x 7 inch artwork, I used the bold face because that’s what Cheap Joe’s carries, but the thin face might have suited it better scale-wise, to be honest. Still, the bold face in the maple finish is not too strong for the work and does offer a chunky effect at this small scale, which I like.

Ampersand currently offers both square and rectangular formats in sizes from 5 inch x 7 inch to 24 inch x 36 inch. They're made to fit common pre-made panels and canvas sizes which is handy if you think ahead and use those sizes to make your art, but not if you work in odd sizes. I hope that in the future they’ll offer sizes to fit all their Gessobords, including my favorites 4 inch x 4 inch and 5 inch x 5 inch. Or maybe they’ll come up with a system ala Nielsen frame kits where you can choose pairs of different sized lengths for custom frame sizes. My paintings were 5 inch x 7 inch, so I chose a 5 inch x 7 inch frame. When they label a frame 5 inch x 7 inch, that means it will fit that size art but the outer dimensions of the entire frame will be a bit bigger. The frames are built to give a 1/4 inch gap between the art and the frame.

Visit Ampersand's website to see their Floaterframe options in more detail. You can even preview your artwork inside one of these frames!

Floater Frame Kit Contents

The framing kit comes with everything I needed to get my art on the wall, down to the picture hanger for the wall itself. They thought of every detail, especially when it came to the risers, which I’ll explain shortly.

• readymade frame
• wood screws
• hanging hook and nail
• hanging wire with a 20 lb. weight limit
• bumper pads
• screw eyes
• 4 risers for 3/4 inch depth artwork (7/8 inch depth frame only, shown here)
• 4 risers for 1/8 inch flat panel artwork (7/8 inch depth frame only, shown here)
• Floaterframe assembly instructions

Here are the tools you'll need:

• drill with a 3/32 inch (or close) bit*
• Phillips head screwdriver
• scissors or wire cutters
• ruler
• wood glue, silicone adhesive, or foam tape if mounting non-cradled flat panels (wood glue is permanent while silicone adhesive and foam tape can be disassembled later if need be)

* If you're like me and your drill bit sizes are no longer legible and you don't know which is the 3/32 inch, here's a tip for finding the right size drill bit: You want a bit that's the same diameter as the shaft of the eyelet (the cylindrical portion the threads stick out of). Take the eyelet and hold your drill bit right in front of it, right up next to it. You’re trying to see how much of the threads are sticking out from behind the bit. You'll need to close one eye to do this properly. You want the bit to completely cover the shaft exactly but the threads to stick out past the bit.

Step-by-Step Framing Instructions with Ampersand Floaterframes

Ampersand Floater Frames are super easy to use. The process was much easier than I anticipated. It took me about 15 minutes start to finish to go from laying out the parts to putting my art on the wall. It actually took me longer to find the tools and set up my workspace than it did to frame my painting. I'm pretty handy, but found that it's not necessary to have any advanced wood working skills to put this frame together. Ampersand has made it really easy. Even the written directions are easy to follow. But if you need to see a video demonstration, check out the Ampersand Floaterframe Product Demonstration by Scott Maier.

Prepare your workspace. Set up a clean, well-lit, clutter-free area. A towel is helpful to protect your art and the frame from damage, because they’ll need to be face down for most of this.

Predrill the holes for the eyelets. Decide which side of the frame will be the top and measure from the top about 1/3 of the overall height of the frame (i.e. the height of the frame divided by 3. This doesn’t have to be exact, but it does have to be the same measurement on both sides.) On the left side, make a sideways V with the point of the V pointing right at the measurement. Repeat on the right side.

Then, mark on the inside edge of the back of the frame just around the corner from where you marked your V, approximately 1/4 inch in. This is where the eyelet will actually go in.

Put a piece of tape on the drill bit indicating how far you’ll need to drill so you don’t accidentally drill through the frame. Hold your drill as perpendicular to the outer edge of the frame as you can and pre-drill the holes.

Install the eyelets. Twist the eyelets into the holes with your fingers. If they’re a bit hard to twist and you need more leverage, use the drill bit through the eyelet loop and it will be easier to twist. You only need the eyelet to go in as far as the threads. Don’t install the wire yet, though.

If you’re not framing flat panels or ¾ inch artwork in a ⅞ inch depth floaterframe, skip this next step.

FOR FLAT OR ¾ inch PANELS ONLY: Attach the risers to the back of your artwork. Turn your artwork over. On the back, measure the center point of each side and mark it.Position the riser** in the center of each back side, slightly away from the edge and not right on the edge where it will be seen from the front. Use heavy-duty double-sided foam tape, wood glue, or silicone adhesive to attach the riser to the panel or canvas.

** The risers have different heights to make sure your artwork sits at the perfect height within the frame, which is just below the face of the frame so that the frame protects it. This is genius on Ampersand’s part and shows their attention to detail. Make sure you use the same height on all 4 sides. For ⅛ inch thick flat panels use the highest side (¾ inch high), for 1/4 inch thick flat panels use the slightly smaller side (9/16 inch), and for ¾ inch canvases use the thin riser. If using double-sided foam tape, take into account the width of the tape and do a dry run on the height first. If you are using glue or silicone adhesive, let it completely dry from a couple of hours to overnight so it won’t slide around while you’re screwing. Make sure that the riser is securely attached to your artwork. Ampersand has a helpful video demonstrating how to use the risers to mount flat panels or ¾ inch cradled panels: How to frame flat panel artwork in a ⅞ inch Ampersand Floaterframe.

Position your artwork in the frame and install temporary spacers. Turn the frame face up and position your artwork in the frame, making sure the top is the right side up. Center and wedge spacers*** in on all four sides to temporarily keep your artwork centered and securely held in place. Be sure that the spacers do not sit higher that the top of the frame so your artwork lays flat when turned face down. (*** Anything that can be used on all four sides to hold the artwork centered while you attach the frame. Using cardboard pieces from the packaging works very well. Cut 1½ inch x 2 inch pieces and fold them lengthwise. Foam core or mat board can also be used). IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOUR ARTWORK IS SECURED TIGHTLY IN PLACE BEFORE SECURING IT TO THE FRAME WITH THE FAST SCREWS. If not, your artwork may shift as pressure is applied and it won’t be centered in the frame.

Attach your artwork to the frame. Turn your artwork and frame back over. If you feel your artwork shift or fall out at this point, redo the spacers to hold tighter. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to insert the fast screws through the predrilled holes in the back of the frame into the cradle or risers of your artwork. There’s really no need to predrill the holes into the back of your artwork because fast screws are designed to penetrate the wood with ease. Using a drill or electric screwdriver will make this step easier, but I’d advise against it since it’s too easy to overtighten. Just a few twists under pressure and the screw be in before you know it. I recommend putting in the first screw, then turning the frame over and checking that your art hasn’t shifted off-center. Add the next screw on the opposite side to the first one and check again. If 2 screws on opposite sides haven’t shifted your artwork, then inserting the rest should be no problem. But if your artwork has shifted, back the screws out and improve the tightness of your spacers before trying again. The temporary spacer trick is essential for the best results. It also helps if you grip the artwork against the frame with your fingers. That way you can feel any movement.

Attach the hanging wire. Measure out the hanging wire to about 6 inch over each side of the frame and cut it with scissors or wire cutters. The wire is thin enough to cut with scissors, but don’t use your best ones! Starting on one eyelet, thread the wire through twice and then wrap the excess wire around itself for at least 6 or so wraps. Pull the wire fairly taut through the other eyelet but leave a little play, then repeat the threading and wrapping on the other eyelet. Trim off any excess wire.

Add the adhesive bumpers. Peel the backing off of the adhesive bumpers and position them onto the 2 back bottom corners of the frame. These help level the artwork against the wall and protect the wall from damage.

Helpful Framing Tips

Repurpose the cardboard packaging as spacers for when you're screwing the art to the frame. I would not have thought to do this, but since you're screwing the panels in from the back, you need a way to keep the artwork from going off kilter. They suggest cutting some scraps from the cardboard packaging (approximately 1½ x 2 inches in size) and folding them in half. Stuff the cardboard spacers between your art and the frame to keep the art centered evenly in the window while you’re screwing it to the frame.

Install the eyelets first before your artwork gets in there. That way you don't run the risk of damaging the work accidentally since power tools are involved. And yes, pre-drilling the holes for the eyelets is necessary.

Don't skip the pre-drilling of the eyelet holes. The frame is made of hardwood so you won't be able to successfully push in an eyelet and start screwing like you might with a softer wood. Plus, you need to make sure the frame won't crack. Ampersand could improve these frames by adding pre-drilled eyelet holes for both vertical and horizontal use. There would be no downside to this so I'm not sure why they don't make that easier since not everyone has access to a drill. Or, skip the eyelets for smaller work and use a sawtooth picture hanger. The small nails used with those shouldn't crack the wood, but avoid the hammer-in style of sawtooth hanger as I believe they might.

Don't overtighten the fast screws. There's simply no need and you run the risk of splitting the wood either on the cradle or the frame if you reuse it over time. Just tighten until you feel the screw stop and no more. It’ll be secure.

I was certain that using the risers for a flat panel would look cheap, rickety, and horrible, but I was wrong. The trick is to glue the risers onto the back of the panel about ⅛ inch or so away from the edge. This puts them in shadow so they don't call attention to them selves. However, I was using a maple frame and the risers were the same general wood tone. If you choose a black, white, or walnut frame, you'll want to paint them a tone closer to the frame color before gluing them to the art. I'm happy this worked because I prefer to paint on flat panels because they’re cheaper, just in case I don't like the finished painting. Now I know I can frame a flat panel with this kit without having to construct a cradle first.

Final Thoughts on Framing

There are some things I wish I’d done differently and I made a list for next time. Here are my thoughts in case this helps you as you are preparing to frame your artwork:

I should have painted the sides of my canvas because they do show in the frame. I may unscrew it and paint it before reinstalling. So keep that in mind, whether you're framing a canvas or cradled wood panel.

The canvas was taut before I put it in the frame but now it's a little loose. I'm certain I didn't install the fast-screws perfectly vertical, resulting in a bit of compression of the stretcher bars towards each other. I probably should have predrilled the holes since I was dealing with a canvas and not a rigid surface. I don't think that would be necessary with a panel, and may not be an issue with larger canvases.

I wish I’d used foam tape instead of wood glue to attach risers to my flat panel painting so I’d have the option to remove them later.

My verdict as a picky artist: Highly recommend.

They elevated my water-soluble oil sketches from rough to refined and were so easy to put together. If I had an exhibition, I wouldn't hesitate to use these frames for every piece. The quality of these frames would instantly improve the quality of my work. My sketch paintings looked 100 times better in this frame than it did out of it. They took my messy practice work and made it look far more professional and polished, which makes me look like a better artist!

A huge plus of these frames is that they're reusable. You can easily switch out the artwork inside for a different exhibition. Because the holes in the back are neatly finished, the fast screw doesn't damage them. The maple is also able to handle more eyelet holes in case you switch from a vertical to horizontal format. The excellent construction quality of these frames will definitely withstand repeated reuse, and reusing frames is a huge money saver.

They're a little on the pricey side, but they are very well made and professionally finished. I would never be able to make such a good looking frame myself from scratch, and I would not be able to afford a similar frame from a frame shop where I'd also be paying for the labor. Considering how much better they make my artwork look which will hopefully improve sales, the time I save due to their ease of use and the fact that I don't have to have a wood shop to construct them from scratch, and the fact that I can reuse them if I don't sell everything, it makes financial and aesthetic sense for me to invest in these.

Please note, this blog is not sponsored by Ampersand. This is my own review for my own artwork. I was inspired to share this information with you because of my positive personal experience. While I do work for Cheap Joe’s, if I didn’t like these frames I simply wouldn’t choose to blog about them!